Peptides for Dark Circles & Under-Eye
Dark circles under the eyes are one of the most common skincare complaints, and one of the most misunderstood. Most people treat all dark circles the same way -- with concealer, more sleep, or whatever eye cream was on sale.
Dark circles under the eyes are one of the most common skincare complaints, and one of the most misunderstood. Most people treat all dark circles the same way -- with concealer, more sleep, or whatever eye cream was on sale. But dark circles have different root causes, and the peptide that helps one type may do nothing for another.
The skin under your eyes is two to four times thinner than the rest of your face [1]. That thinness makes it the first place to show aging, fatigue, and vascular changes. Peptides can address several of these underlying factors -- from strengthening fragile capillary walls to reducing fluid buildup to rebuilding the collagen matrix that keeps under-eye skin from looking translucent.
This guide covers the specific peptides studied for under-eye concerns, which types of dark circles they work best for, and how to build an effective eye area routine.
Table of Contents
- Why Dark Circles Form: The Four Types
- How Peptides Help the Under-Eye Area
- The Best Peptides for Dark Circles
- Peptides for Under-Eye Wrinkles and Firmness
- Matching Peptides to Your Dark Circle Type
- What to Pair With Your Eye Peptides
- How to Apply Peptide Eye Products
- Realistic Timelines and Expectations
- FAQ
- The Bottom Line
- References
Why Dark Circles Form: The Four Types
Before choosing peptides, you need to understand what is actually causing your dark circles. A 2016 review in the Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology classified periorbital hyperpigmentation into four main types [2]:
Vascular Dark Circles (Blue or Purple)
These appear when blood pools in the tiny capillaries beneath the thin under-eye skin, making the vessels visible from outside. Red blood cells can also leak from fragile capillaries, releasing hemoglobin that breaks down into colored pigments -- bilirubin (yellow-green) and biliverdin (blue-green) -- that create a bruised appearance [3].
Quick test: Gently stretch the skin under your eye. If the dark color fades or becomes less visible, vascular issues are likely at play. A cold compress that temporarily shrinks blood vessels can confirm this.
Common triggers: Lack of sleep, allergies, nasal congestion, genetics, capillary fragility.
Pigmented Dark Circles (Brown or Black)
Excess melanin production in the under-eye area creates brown or dark discoloration. This is more common in deeper skin tones, where the skin naturally produces more eumelanin. Sun exposure, hormonal changes (pregnancy, contraceptive use), and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation can all worsen it [2].
Quick test: The discoloration stays the same when you stretch the skin. It does not fade with a cold compress or change with lighting angles.
Structural Dark Circles (Shadows)
As you age, you lose fat and bone density around the eye socket. The tear trough -- the depression between your lower eyelid and cheek -- deepens. This creates shadows that look like dark circles but are actually the result of your facial structure, not pigmentation or blood vessels [4].
Quick test: The darkness changes depending on lighting direction. When you look straight at a mirror with overhead light, it appears more pronounced than with front-facing light.
Thin Skin / Translucent Dark Circles
Collagen and elastin loss makes the under-eye skin progressively more transparent with age, allowing underlying muscle and blood vessels to show through. This is related to vascular circles but driven primarily by skin thinning rather than vessel dilation or leakage.
Important: Many people have a combination of these types. Mixed-pattern dark circles are actually the most common presentation [2].
How Peptides Help the Under-Eye Area
Peptides address under-eye concerns through several mechanisms:
- Collagen stimulation: Signal peptides prompt fibroblasts to build more collagen, thickening the under-eye skin so blood vessels are less visible through it.
- Anti-inflammatory action: Some peptides reduce the chronic low-grade inflammation that contributes to capillary leakage and fluid retention.
- Vascular wall strengthening: Certain peptides improve capillary integrity, reducing the leakage that creates vascular dark circles.
- Fluid drainage: Specific peptides reduce edema (fluid accumulation) in the periorbital area, addressing puffiness and the dark appearance it creates.
- Iron chelation and pigment clearance: Specialized peptide complexes can help break down and clear the hemoglobin-derived pigments that accumulate under the eyes.
Not every peptide does all of these things. The right one depends on your specific type of dark circle.
The Best Peptides for Dark Circles
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5 (Eyeseryl)
Eyeseryl is arguably the most targeted peptide for under-eye concerns. It is a synthetic tetrapeptide with the sequence Ac-betaAla-His-Ser-His, and it works through three distinct mechanisms [5]:
ACE inhibition: Eyeseryl inhibits angiotensin-converting enzyme (ACE), which reduces fluid retention in the periorbital area. Poor lymphatic circulation and high capillary permeability make the under-eye area prone to swelling -- Eyeseryl directly addresses this.
Reduced vascular permeability: By decreasing the permeability of blood vessels around the eyes, Eyeseryl prevents fluid from leaking into surrounding tissue. Less fluid accumulation means less puffiness and less darkening.
Anti-glycation: Glycation (the bonding of sugar molecules to proteins) degrades collagen over time. Eyeseryl helps prevent glycation-induced collagen breakdown, preserving the structural protein network that supports the under-eye area [5].
Clinical evidence: In a study of 20 volunteers, puffiness was significantly reduced after just 15 days, with 70% of participants showing improvement. By the end of the study, 95% showed improvement. Dark circles decreased by 35% after 28 days, and skin elasticity around the eyes increased by 30% over 30 days [5].
Caveat: Much of the published clinical data on Eyeseryl comes from manufacturer-sponsored studies with small sample sizes. Independent, large-scale clinical trials on PubMed remain limited [6]. The results are encouraging, but interpret them with that context.
Best for: Vascular dark circles, puffiness, fluid retention.
Haloxyl (Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 + Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 + Chrysin + NHS)
Haloxyl is not a single peptide but a multi-component complex developed by Sederma. It combines two peptides with two small molecules to tackle vascular dark circles from multiple angles [3]:
- Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7: Reduces inflammation and strengthens the skin structure around the eyes.
- Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1: Stimulates collagen and elastin production, reinforcing the fragile connective tissue of the periorbital area.
- Chrysin: A flavonoid that accelerates the metabolism of bilirubin -- the yellow pigment left behind when leaked hemoglobin breaks down.
- N-Hydroxysuccinimide (NHS): Binds iron from degraded hemoglobin and works with chrysin to clear the colored metabolites that cause discoloration.
This multi-pronged approach makes Haloxyl particularly effective for dark circles caused by blood pigment accumulation. The peptide components address the underlying structural weakness and inflammation, while the chrysin and NHS components clear the visible evidence of past capillary leakage [3].
Best for: Vascular dark circles with visible discoloration from blood pigment deposits.
GHK-Cu (Copper Peptide)
GHK-Cu is a tripeptide-copper complex with strong evidence for overall skin rejuvenation, and several of its properties are directly relevant to under-eye concerns.
GHK-Cu stimulates collagen and elastin production, which thickens the under-eye skin and makes underlying blood vessels less visible [7]. It also has anti-inflammatory properties that can reduce the chronic irritation contributing to capillary fragility, and it improves blood circulation around the eye area [8].
In a 12-week trial, GHK-Cu cream increased skin density and thickness -- exactly what you need in the thin-skinned periorbital area. It also improved skin clarity, which directly relates to the translucent appearance that makes dark circles more prominent [9].
The limitation: GHK-Cu is a general skin rejuvenation peptide, not specifically formulated for under-eye dark circles. It will not directly clear hemoglobin-derived pigments or address melanin-based hyperpigmentation. But if your dark circles are partly driven by thin, aging skin and collagen loss, GHK-Cu addresses that root cause.
For more on copper peptides, see the full Copper Peptides guide.
Best for: Thin skin / translucent dark circles, general under-eye skin quality, fine lines.
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
On its own (outside of the Haloxyl complex), Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 reduces inflammation by suppressing the release of interleukin-6, a pro-inflammatory cytokine. In the under-eye area, this anti-inflammatory action helps reduce the puffiness and swelling that worsen the appearance of dark circles.
It is most often found in combination with Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 in Matrixyl 3000 formulations. Together, they stimulate collagen production while controlling inflammation -- a useful pairing for the under-eye area where both thinning skin and chronic low-grade inflammation contribute to dark circles.
Best for: Puffiness-related dark circles, inflammation-driven under-eye issues.
Peptides for Under-Eye Wrinkles and Firmness
Dark circles rarely exist in isolation. Crow's feet, fine lines, and loss of firmness around the eyes are often part of the same aging process. These peptides target the wrinkle and firmness side of under-eye aging:
Argireline (Acetyl Hexapeptide-8)
Argireline partially relaxes the muscle contractions that create crow's feet and expression lines. A multi-peptide eye serum containing 10% Argireline and 4% Matrixyl 3000 showed a 32.48% reduction in wrinkle area after 14 days and 43.56% after 28 days [10].
For the eye area specifically, Argireline is one of the most practical peptides because crow's feet are classic expression lines -- exactly the wrinkle type this peptide is designed to address.
Matrixyl (Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4)
Matrixyl and its advanced versions stimulate collagen production, which improves skin thickness and firmness around the eyes. Matrixyl Synthe-6 specifically promotes the production of six major components of the skin matrix, making it well-suited for the thin, matrix-poor skin of the under-eye area.
Syn-Ake and Leuphasyl
Syn-Ake and Leuphasyl offer additional expression-line reduction through mechanisms different from Argireline. Using them in combination with Argireline can produce stronger results than any single neurotransmitter-inhibiting peptide alone, which is why multi-peptide eye formulations often include two or three of these together.
Matching Peptides to Your Dark Circle Type
| Dark Circle Type | Primary Peptide | Supporting Peptides | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Vascular (blue/purple) | Eyeseryl (Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5) | Haloxyl complex, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 | Focus on reducing vascular permeability and clearing blood pigments |
| Pigmented (brown) | GHK-Cu | Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 | Peptides alone are not the strongest option here -- pair with niacinamide, vitamin C, or arbutin |
| Structural (shadows/hollows) | Limited peptide benefit | GHK-Cu for skin thickening | Fillers or fat grafting address the root cause more directly |
| Thin skin / translucent | GHK-Cu | Matrixyl 3000, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 | Building collagen thickness is the primary strategy |
| Mixed (most common) | Multi-peptide approach | Eyeseryl + GHK-Cu + Argireline | Address multiple contributing factors simultaneously |
What to Pair With Your Eye Peptides
Peptides work well in combination with other active ingredients. For under-eye concerns, these pairings are particularly effective:
Caffeine: Acts as a vasoconstrictor, temporarily tightening blood vessels to reduce swelling. It also stimulates lipolysis (fat breakdown) and improves microcirculation in the under-eye area. One study showed caffeine significantly improved lower eyelid puffiness [11]. Pairs well with Eyeseryl for vascular dark circles.
Niacinamide (Vitamin B3): Inhibits melanin transfer from melanocytes to keratinocytes. A study found that 5% niacinamide cream reduced pigmented spots by 11% after 4 weeks [12]. This is your best pairing option for pigmented (brown) dark circles, where peptides alone are less effective.
Vitamin C (THD ascorbate or MAP): Brightens pigmentation while supporting collagen production. A study of a formulation containing vitamin C, caffeine, and peptides showed a 12.5% reduction in dark circles at 4 weeks and 20% at 12 weeks [13]. Use stable vitamin C derivatives (not L-ascorbic acid) near the eyes -- the low pH of pure ascorbic acid can reduce peptide effectiveness.
Vitamin K: Strengthens capillary walls and supports blood coagulation, potentially reducing the vascular component of dark circles. Evidence is mixed: one study combining vitamin K with retinol showed 93% effectiveness [14], but another found only a 16% response rate for vitamin K with caffeine [15]. Most effective when combined with other actives rather than used alone.
Hyaluronic acid: Provides hydration that plumps the under-eye area and makes fine lines less visible. Not a treatment for dark circles directly, but dehydrated under-eye skin always looks worse.
What to avoid combining directly with peptides: L-ascorbic acid (vitamin C in its pure, low-pH form) and direct acids (AHAs, BHAs) at low pH can destabilize peptides and reduce their effectiveness. Use these in a separate step or at a different time of day.
How to Apply Peptide Eye Products
The periorbital area requires a gentler approach than the rest of your face:
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Use your ring finger. It naturally applies the least pressure, which matters for skin this thin and fragile.
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Tap, do not rub. Apply small dots of product along the orbital bone (the bony ridge around your eye socket) and gently pat them in. Dragging or pulling the under-eye skin can worsen laxity over time.
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Follow the bone, not the skin. Stay on or near the orbital bone rather than pressing into the soft tissue directly below the eye. Product will migrate to the inner areas on its own.
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Apply to clean, slightly damp skin. Peptides absorb better when the skin is not completely dry. After cleansing, lightly pat (do not fully dry) the area before applying your eye product.
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Layer thoughtfully. If using multiple products, go thinnest to thickest: peptide serum first, then eye cream, then any occlusive to seal everything in.
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Wear sunscreen. UV exposure degrades collagen, stimulates melanin, and damages capillary walls -- all of which worsen dark circles. A broad-spectrum SPF 30+ sunscreen around the eyes, plus UV-blocking sunglasses, protects your peptide investment. This is non-negotiable.
Realistic Timelines and Expectations
Peptide eye care is not an overnight fix. Here is what the research suggests for realistic timelines:
- 1-2 weeks: Improved hydration, possible mild reduction in puffiness (especially with Eyeseryl)
- 2-4 weeks: Subtle improvements in skin texture and tone. Eyeseryl clinical data shows 70% of participants saw improvement by day 15 [5].
- 4-8 weeks: More noticeable reduction in fine lines and crow's feet, especially with neurotransmitter-inhibiting peptides like Argireline. Wrinkle area reductions of 30-40% have been measured at the 4-week mark in clinical studies [10].
- 8-12 weeks: Collagen-related improvements become visible -- improved skin thickness, reduced translucency, better firmness. GHK-Cu studies measured significant improvements at the 12-week mark [9].
What peptides will not do: They will not eliminate deep tear troughs (that is a filler or surgical issue). They will not fully replace the effects of neurotoxin injections for crow's feet. They will not reverse severe pigmentary dark circles on their own -- you will need brightening agents alongside them. Set your expectations accordingly, and you will be less likely to abandon a routine that is actually working.
FAQ
What type of dark circles do most people have?
Mixed-type dark circles are the most common. Most people have some combination of vascular, pigmented, and structural components. This is why multi-ingredient eye products tend to work better than single-active formulas -- they address multiple contributing factors at once [2].
Can peptides completely get rid of dark circles?
In most cases, no. Peptides can meaningfully reduce the appearance of dark circles by strengthening skin structure, reducing puffiness, and improving circulation. But genetics, bone structure, and lifestyle factors all play a role that topical products cannot fully override. Think improvement, not elimination.
Are peptide eye creams safe for sensitive skin?
Peptides are generally well-tolerated, even by sensitive skin. They do not cause the irritation, peeling, or photosensitivity associated with retinoids or high-concentration vitamin C. Start with a patch test on the inner wrist if you are concerned, but adverse reactions to peptide eye products are uncommon.
How are peptide eye products different from regular eye creams?
Many eye creams rely primarily on moisturizing ingredients (shea butter, ceramides, hyaluronic acid) to temporarily plump and hydrate the area. Peptide eye products contain active signaling molecules that interact with skin cells to produce structural changes -- collagen production, reduced inflammation, improved vascular integrity. The effects take longer to develop but address root causes rather than just masking symptoms.
Should I use a separate eye product or can I use my peptide serum under my eyes?
You can use facial peptide serums in the under-eye area, and many people do. Dedicated eye products are formulated with lower concentrations of potentially irritating ingredients, ophthalmologist-tested for safety near the eyes, and often include eye-specific peptides like Eyeseryl. If your facial serum contains Matrixyl or GHK-Cu, it is fine to apply it under your eyes. For targeted dark circle treatment, a dedicated eye product with Eyeseryl or Haloxyl will be more focused.
Do dark circles get worse with age?
Generally, yes. Collagen loss makes skin thinner and more translucent, capillary fragility increases, and fat pad and bone changes create deeper hollows. Starting a peptide eye routine earlier can help slow some of these changes. See Best Peptides for Skin Anti-Aging for a broader anti-aging strategy.
The Bottom Line
Dark circles have different causes, and the right peptide depends on what is driving yours. For vascular circles with puffiness, Eyeseryl and the Haloxyl complex target the specific mechanisms of fluid retention and blood pigment accumulation. For thin, aging under-eye skin, GHK-Cu and Matrixyl 3000 rebuild the collagen matrix that keeps blood vessels hidden. For expression lines around the eyes, Argireline and Snap-8 relax the muscle contractions responsible.
Most people benefit from a multi-peptide approach because most dark circles are multi-factorial. Pair your peptides with complementary ingredients -- caffeine for vascular support, niacinamide for pigmentation, sunscreen for protection -- and give the routine 8-12 weeks before judging results. Consistency matters more than any single product choice.
For related guides, see Best Peptides for Skin Anti-Aging, Best Peptides for Skin Wound Healing, and Peptides for Stretch Marks.
References
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Hwang, K., et al. "The thickness of the skin of the midface in Asians." Journal of Craniofacial Surgery, 2008; 19(4): 958-961. PMC
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Ranu, H., et al. "Periorbital Hyperpigmentation: A Comprehensive Review." Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, 2016. PMC
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Freitag, F.M., Cestari, T.F. "What causes dark circles under the eyes?" Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2007; 6(3): 211-215. PMC
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Goldberg, R.A., McCann, J.D., Fiaschetti, D., Ben Simon, G.J. "What causes eyelid bags? Analysis of 114 consecutive patients." Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery, 2005; 115(5): 1395-1402.
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Sederma/Lipotec. "Eyeseryl (Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5): Mechanism and clinical studies." Published clinical data on file. Referenced in: Pai, V.V., Bhandari, P., Shukla, P. Indian Journal of Dermatology, Venereology, and Leprology, 2017.
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Lintner, K. "Peptides and Proteins." Chapter in Cosmeceuticals and Active Cosmetics. CRC Press, 2015.
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Pickart, L., Vasquez-Soltero, J.M., Margolina, A. "GHK Peptide as a Natural Modulator of Multiple Cellular Pathways in Skin Regeneration." BioMed Research International, 2015. PMC
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Pickart, L., Vasquez-Soltero, J.M., Margolina, A. "Regenerative and Protective Actions of the GHK-Cu Peptide in the Light of the New Gene Data." International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 2018; 19(7): 1987. PMC
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Leyden, J.J., et al. "Facial skin rejuvenation with copper peptide cream." Presented at the American Academy of Dermatology meeting, 2002.
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Li, S., et al. "Clinical evidence of the efficacy and safety of a new multi-peptide anti-aging topical eye serum." Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2023; 22(7): 2025-2034. Wiley
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Herman, A., Herman, A.P. "Caffeine's mechanisms of action and its cosmetic use." Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 2013; 26(1): 8-14.
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Hakozaki, T., et al. "The effect of niacinamide on reducing cutaneous pigmentation and suppression of melanosome transfer." British Journal of Dermatology, 2002; 147(1): 20-31. PubMed
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Rajabi-Estarabadi, A., et al. "Clinical efficacy of a topical formulation for periorbital dark circles." Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2023.
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Elson, M.L. "Treatment of periorbital dark circles with 1% vitamin K and retinol." Proceedings of the Annual Meeting of the American Academy of Cosmetic Surgery, 1999.
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Ahmadraji, F., Shatalebi, M.A. "Evaluation of the clinical efficacy and safety of an eye counter pad containing caffeine and vitamin K in emulsified Emu oil base." Advanced Biomedical Research, 2015; 4: 10. PMC